pH Increaser and pH Decreaser for backyard waterfall Koi ponds

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For the record, pH is technically defined as the negative base 10 logarithm of the effective hydrogen ion concentration in gram equivalents per liter (whatever that means, and why is it spelled so pHunny?). We are going to skip many of the technical details since it is not really necessary that a pond keeper knows exactly what pH is. What is important is to know how to make pH measurements, to routinely make the measurements, and how to interpret their results.

We are familiar enough with the extremes of acids and bases to know it is not a good idea to place a bare hand in either battery acid or caustic lye, and we can assume that neither would be a good place to put our fish. A pH measurement will help us determine if our water is a proper place to put the fish. For our Koi ponds, the pH should normally be between 7.0 and 8.5, but it is probably acceptable to be anywhere between 6.0 and 9.0. Although most of the koi fish could tolerate a pH as low as 5.0, bio-converter bacteria are subject to damage. Long term conditions above 9.0, can cause kidney damage to the Koi.

Test kits that we carry use drops, with a color chart to show various ranges of pH. A pH test kit is considered as a requirement for all backyard waterfall ponds.

Pond Supply Koi Fish pH Increaser Healthy Waterfall Ponds

$12.50

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Pond Supply Koi Fish pH Decreaser Healthy Waterfall Ponds

$12.50

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Pond Supply Koi Fish pH Test Kit Healthy Waterfall Ponds

$8.95

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Ponds with vinyl liners or of fibre glass construction tend to show a decrease in alkalinity over time and may need supplements to maintain an acceptable level. Raise alkalinity by adding Calcium Carbonate, concrete blocks, oyster shells, limestone, or even egg shells. To raise the alkalinity by 40 ppm, add 1/2 oz of Calcium Carbonate (precipitate powder) per 100 gallons of water. A bag of oyster shells or even a concrete block or two (not cinder block) submerged in the pond or filter area may be all that is needed. Keep a close eye on the pH while adjusting Alkalinity levels.

Established ponds will normally maintain their equilibrium pH value if sludge and decaying organic material is routinely removed from the pond through a pressure filter, and Clear Pond Dry Formula. Scheduled water change outs (10% per week for a small pond, less for larger ponds) are also helpful. Monitoring the pH by recording weekly readings (before the water change outs) can provide an excellent indication of any developing problems. pH values do change somewhat during each 24 hours, depending upon the temperature, quantity of plants (algae and others), and the size of the pond, so try to take the measurements at about the same time of day. Alkalinity measurements can provide a warning that a pH problem may be imminent.

If the pH gets out of control, high or low, increase aeration and conduct daily water change outs to bring it back into range. Recheck after each water change out and again in 24 hours. At a pH of 6 or 9, do daily 10% to 25% water change outs. For a pH of 5 or 10, do 25% to 50% water change outs. At pH extremes approaching 4 or 11, remove any remaining fish. CAUTION: Be sure and check and treat for any Ammonia presence with Ammonia Eliminator BEFORE attempting to raise pH through either chemical or water change out means. Only under EMERGENCY conditions should chemical means be used to adjust the pH in a pond. Attempting to lower the pH chemically can be particularly hazardous to you, the biologic converter, and the fish (not necessarily in that order).

Repeating for emphasis, the value of the pH measurement, within the acceptable limits, is of little importance. A change, whether sudden or a slow trend, to the pH of an established pond, indicates action may be required and is why periodic pH measurements are important. Further, if your pH is reasonably stable and anywhere between 7.0 and 8.5, not only is there no need to attempt to adjust it.

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